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In Burgundy, nothing is ever truly easy, not even when the weather seems to play along. The 2023 vintage is proof of that: a season which, if judged only by the statistics, might look straightforward, even favourable. No devastating frosts, only a few hailstorms, no prolonged heatwaves. But wine, as we know, is as much a child of the land as of the climate, and in 2023, the climate spoke in subtler tones, marked by details, nuances, and crucial choices.
Rather than sudden extremes, it was consistency that tested growers throughout the season. After a mild, dry winter, spring arrived cool and evenly watered, encouraging a regular budburst between April 7 and 10. Flowering at the end of May promised abundance: plentiful, well-formed clusters that suggested a generous harvest, but one that would require careful management to preserve quality.
June brought sunshine in spades, 330 hours of light compared to 253 in 2022, but July tempered the enthusiasm. Cloudy days gave way to a violent storm on the 11th: in Meursault, some parcels lost up to 40% of their crop. Damage in Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny was less severe, but the message was clear: 2023 was a vintage to be watched closely and approached with caution.
In August, a sudden alternation of cool and hot weather upended the rhythm of ripening. After a slow start, August 17 brought a dramatic spike in temperature, pushing highs above 37°C in just a few days. Sugar levels in the grapes rose rapidly, forcing growers to take swift decisions about when to begin picking. A second heat pulse in early September sped the process up even more.
So the 2023 harvests became a matter of geography and interpretation. In Puligny-Montrachet picking began on 26 August, while in Saint-Romain they waited until 15 September. In the Côte de Nuits, between Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, grapes were harvested between 6 and 15 September. Whites were gathered first, with reds following and picking stretching into the third week of September.
The challenge of yields
If 2023 will be remembered, it will be for its generosity. In many cases, yields were abundant, right up to, and in some vineyards even beyond, the legal limits. Certain Pinot Noir parcels reached as high as 100 hl/ha, well above the thresholds set by the INAO. Careful vineyard management was therefore essential: those who carried out early green harvesting were able to channel the vine’s energy toward quality, while those who intervened too late risked diluting the fruit. For whites, higher yields are physiologically easier to manage, but the balance remains delicate.
In the cellar, the guiding principle was elegance: less intrusive vinification, lower fermentation temperatures (around 28°C), and reduced use of whole clusters. Alternative vessels, like amphorae, demi-muids, and ceramic, are becoming more common, reflecting a broader movement toward transparency, expressiveness, and precision.
The hidden grace of the 2023 vintage
The hallmark of 2023 is freshness, lightness, and a bright sense of tension. It’s a vintage that doesn’t shout but whispers, with balance as its defining trait. As Steen Öhman of Winehog noted after his first tastings in November, these are wines that are “frais et légers”, immediately approachable yet far from simple. An elegant answer to the opulence of previous years.
In the whites, ripe yellow fruit tones dominate (peach, apricot) alongside citrus, carried by a supple structure and well-held acidity. This is not the sharp, malic side of Chardonnay, but a sunnier expression, free of the tropical excesses seen in 2018 or 2020. The late-summer push in ripeness brought richness, but in many cases acidity and pH remained well balanced, especially where limestone soils helped preserve freshness and depth. Chassagne-Montrachet, supported by an increasingly cohesive group of growers, continues to deliver particularly compelling interpretations.
Among Bourgogne Blanc, there are occasionally more exotic notes, though without compromising the precision and immediacy the vintage allows. Vine age also played an important role, naturally moderating yields that were often abundant.
Aligoté deserves a mention as well. While not the undisputed star of the vintage, many examples impress with their energy and verticality. Far from being a “lesser” alternative to Chardonnay, they testify to a growing sensitivity for this grape, capable of uniting expressiveness, minerality, and tension.
One of the standout emerging names is Domaine du Puy de l’Ours, a young estate in Savigny-lès-Beaune founded by Jean Orsoni and Juliette Puyperoux. With a minimal and organic approach, their six wines, including a refined blanc de noir, offer a vibrant reading of the vintage. Limited sulfur use, virtually no new oak, and a commitment to transparent vinification make them a fresh and credible reference point for Burgundy’s new generation.
Pinot Noir in a lyrical key
The 2023 Pinot Noir speaks with a clear, pure voice. Red fruits dominate, wild strawberries, crisp cherries, redcurrants. The texture leans toward subtlety rather than concentration, gaining in elegance and transparency. Some samples show a surprising peppery note, almost suggesting the use of whole clusters, even when none were used: a detail that perfectly illustrates the spontaneous complexity of this vintage. Tannins are silky, the structure delicate yet present, with a natural liveliness that makes these reds vibrant, gastronomic, and enjoyable immediately, yet still capable of further evolution.
Whereas 2020 leaned toward ripeness and 2017 toward freshness, 2023 manages to combine both elements in a striking harmony. Some producers have described an unprecedented balance between classicism and modernity, achieved, where possible, through severe pruning, thinning, careful vineyard and cellar selection, and meticulous yield management. Where these variables were less tightly controlled, wines can sometimes appear lighter than expected, occasionally lacking grip or length.
Two contrasting visions offer a stimulating snapshot of contemporary Burgundy. Mark Haisma, an Australian transplanted to Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, continues to impress with the authenticity of his vinification. His 2023s, like his 2022s, were made with delicate handling, allowing the fruit and terroir to shine. “Easy-going and effortless,” as Winehog puts it, yet far from simple.
On the other side, Jérémy Recchione pursues his bold path toward nearly sulphite-free vinification. The use of ceramic, spontaneous fermentations, and an increasingly restrained aesthetic produce wines with lively, often “wild” character, yet ever more focused. His 2023s are ripe and intense but never excessive, wines that do not aim to please everyone, but that reward those willing to listen.
No single appellation stands out above the rest, but the growing value of Marsannay is evident, where quality appears to be rising faster than prices. Slightly lower rainfall compared to other areas may have made the difference, resulting in more defined wines. Maison Gautheron d’Anost, with its Marsannay Au Quartier, produces a tense, vibrant wine of great energy and precision. A bottle that earns its place on the most demanding tables, including here in Lugano, where an increasing number of Swiss enthusiasts are discovering the value of lesser-known crus.
A defining feature of the vintage is the shift toward lighter, more agile styles, even among producers usually associated with darker, more opulent wines. The season almost forced many to favour red fruit, freshness, and finesse, proving that even in the most traditional cellars, change is possible. The 2023s do not require extended aging to reveal themselves: they are already irresistible today, yet still capable of rewarding those who can wait.
Chablis 2023: tension, ripeness, and a new sense of freshness
Further north, in Chablis, 2023 revealed a unique character. A mild winter, with average temperatures around 5°C, gave way to an exceptionally dry February (just 9 mm of rain), followed by a wetter March that replenished the subsoil. But a return of cold in April, with minimum temperatures causing localized frosts on the 4th and 5th, reminded growers that even in a seemingly calm vintage, risk is never far away.
As early as spring, technicians noted unusual heterogeneity between parcels, a feature that persisted throughout the season up to harvest. After a regular flowering in early June, the second half of the month saw increased pressure from fungal diseases, particularly powdery mildew and downy mildew. According to many producers, downy mildew in 2023 was among the most aggressive in recent years. Frequent interventions were required, making vineyard work particularly demanding, especially for those following organic or biodynamic practices.
Rain continued into the summer months, swelling the berries and adding further uncertainty to the crop. Some clusters reached unusual weights (up to 200 grams), but fortunately the weather stabilized just before harvest, avoiding the risk of botrytis. Picking began in the second week of September, with timing varying according to altitude and exposure.
Stylistically, the 2023 Chablis wines occupy an interesting middle ground: not classic in the austere sense, but not “Mediterranean” either. They often show an aromatic profile where traditional notes of green apple, white flowers, and lemon zest are interwoven with more exotic nuances, always measured and balanced. These are fuller wines than in past years, yet they retain the mineral tension that is the very soul of Chablis.
Château de Béru: coherent and visionary biodynamics
In this complex context, Château de Béru stands out as one of the most credible references of Burgundy’s new generation. Perched on the windy hills above the village of Béru, the estate practices rigorous biodynamic viticulture, inspired by the principles of Rudolf Steiner. Winemaker Gaëlle Ribé, energetic and visionary, follows a coherent philosophy that translates into wines of vibrant personality.
In 2023, the harvest took place on 11 September, slightly later than the recent average. The grapes benefited from a slow ripening process that preserved tartaric acidity, essential for the wine’s final balance. The Chablis Côte Aux Prêtes 2023, still in barrel, has already impressed with its expressive purity: citrus aromas, beeswax, and a subtle curry leaf note that adds originality. On the palate, it is dense and lively, finishing with a saline note that promises excellent aging potential.
A vintage to listen to, even in Chablis
Overall, 2023 proves to be a complex but intriguing vintage, one to read carefully and enjoy with an open mind. Burgundy and Chablis share the story of a changing climate and increasingly thoughtful viticulture. The wines of this vintage do not shout, yet speak clearly to those willing to listen. Freshness, balance, and immediate appeal without simplicity: these are the hallmarks of a vintage that, in Lugano and beyond, will captivate curious palates.
At Chronos, this is part of our work: tasting, selecting, and telling the story. The 2023 vintage in Burgundy and Chablis is complex, multifaceted, and deserves to be understood in depth.
We are continuing to explore it: many wines are arriving in our warehouse in the coming weeks and will soon be available. To discover the most promising labels suited to your taste, contact us for a dedicated and professional consultation.